Tuesday, September 21, 2010

My personal favorites, Part I

I think that a blog entry dedicated to the the great ice cream makers of the world is in order.  I'd like to pay homage to those doing great things, big and small, and maybe give a shout-out to my all time favorite ice cream treats.  


Ben & Jerry's:  
In my book, they take the cake when it comes to creative mix-ins.  Not only can they take credit for being the first to do cookie dough ice cream, but they offer over 50 creative and unique flavors, and those are just the ones that are still in circulation.  If you check out their website, you can see all the flavors that RIP in the flavor graveyard.  Besides the fact they make amazingly delicious ice cream, they've been striving to run a green company well before it was the cool thing to do.  Also, they make my favorite ice cream, Chocolate Fudge Brownie, and that makes them #1 in my book.  

So maybe they don't get points for creativity, but I would argue that they have perfected the art of vanilla.  For those of you who haven't made vanilla ice cream, it's a lot more difficult than you may think.  A good vanilla ice cream is a delicate balancing act, often times swayed one way or another in the wrong direction. Too sweet, too rich, too icy, too eggy?  I'm not sure eggy is a word but you get where I'm going with that.  At any rate, Haagen-Dazs has it down and I don't know many people who would disagree with me.  


It's It: 
As a Bay Area native, I grew up enjoying these delicious San Francisco treats. After some historical research, I discovered that these babies were created in 1928 for exclusive sale at Playland-at-the-Beach, a long demolished theme park of sorts on the Great Highway.  


After Playland closed, the treats disappeared briefly, only to resurface years later on a much larger scale.  
Currently, you can enjoy five different It's It brand treats, although my favorite still remains the classic vanilla It's It.  A scoop of creamy vanilla ice cream sandwiched between two soft oatmeal cookies blanketed in a thin coat of dark chocolate.  Each flavor in harmony with the other.  Sure you could go crazy and enjoy an It's It with mint, chocolate or coffee ice cream but I think classic vanilla is the way to go.


Nestle Drumstick:
Honestly, what's not to love about a Drumstick? It's essentially a portable sundae but instead of some boring bowl, you get a delicious crunchy sugar cone that's been lined with chocolate.  And WHO can forget about that extra chocolate that pools in the bottom of the cone, forming the most delicious and satisfying ending in ice cream cone history. Ahhh drumsticks...now-a-days there are about a million varieties but true to form, I'm a sucker for the original vanilla.  However, if you showed up with the caramel centered ones, I wouldn't turn you away.  

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Popsicles, the next big thing?

So maybe I'm a little late to jump on the ice cream bandwagon, but perhaps my imagination can lead me in a similar, yet profoundly innovative direction.  When discussing the possibilities of opening an ice cream shop in small town Sebastopol, I was immediately informed that another local business already had a stronghold on the hearts, and stomaches, of the quaint Sonoma County community.  Why wouldn't they?  It's 2010 and organic, locally produced ice cream is far from a new development.  Not that I'm one to back down from a challenge, but why compete with a business after my own heart.

I stand by the belief that there are many elements necessary to achieving success in business, and to creating a product that will exceed your customers demands, the most important being novelty.  If you're making something that someone else has already created, it better be damn good.  The upside of the ice cream business is that "good" is very subjective.  By that I mean your goat milk gelato might be preferred over a traditional gelato by a certain group of people, each side arguing that their preference is "better".  But who is right? The answer is neither, and both.

But I digress, this blog is supposed to be about popsicles.  I have yet to tackle the issues regarding popsicle making but I intend to and I promise to report on my findings as soon as possible.  On a side note, I was recently re-enraged over the discontinuation of my beloved jello pudding pops .  Yes the disappearance did take place over 15 years ago, but it doesn't make it hurt any less.  With that in mind, I am formally announcing my intention to re-create the memorable and highly regarded jello pudding pop, icy shell and all.  Heck, maybe I'll even try out some other flavors while I'm at it.

Stay tuned...

Friday, September 3, 2010

Eggs or no eggs, that is the question.

Before I started this journey, I had little to no knowledge of how to make ice cream.  I had an idea that it was something along the lines of this: milk, cream, sugar, eggs, and perhaps some other miscellaneous flavor components.  Most, if not all, of the recipes I read prior to my first batch of homemade goodness included these components, except one.  This one particular recipe came from the instructional booklet included with  my gelato machine, and referenced its traditional Sicilian roots for the omission of eggs.

In this recipe, the egg yolks were substituted with cornstarch in order to preserve the vibrant and rich flavor of the chocolate.  The idea behind cornstarch, if I've read correctly, is to enhance the texture of the ice cream and add viscosity without the additional flavor eggs bring to the party.  Being the inquisitive soul that I am, I pondered which textural enhancer worked more efficiently, eggs or cornstarch, and if flavor interference was the only reason to use one over the other. With some money burning a hole in my pocket and a few hours to kill, I was determined to find out.

STEP ONE: find a recipe to test.  STEP TWO: decide vanilla is the obvious choice.  STEP THREE: make two batches of ice cream, one with egg yolks, the other with cornstarch.  Done, done and done.  And the results....drum roll please....not all that exciting.  Annoyingly enough, they both tasted pretty similar.  The one with eggs had a slightly richer custard-like flavor, the one with cornstarch tasted sweeter and more like true vanilla.  So which one was better?

I was determined, and still am, to find the best of both worlds.  That means finding a happy medium between the two.  A hybrid if you will, part egg and part cornstarch.  After about a million test batches of vanilla, the perfect balance was achieved.  (Or so I thought...but that's for another blog...)  The two original recipes I tested against each other required either 6 egg yolks, or 2 Tbsp of cornstarch.  The modified recipe for my "perfect" vanilla uses 2 egg yolks and 1 tbsp of cornstarch, a conglomerate of eggy richness and bright vanilla flavor working together in perfect harmony.  Here is what I came up with:

2 c. heavy cream
1 c. milk
1/2 c. sugar
2 egg yolks
1 tbsp cornstarch
1 tbsp vanilla bean paste
1 pinch salt


So to answer my question, eggs or no eggs, I guess the only appropriate answer is eggs.  Or no eggs.  Or maybe something in-between.  Wait, can you repeat the question?